South Island NZ road trip Jan 2013

There seemed little point staying in Wellington over new years when when everyone had left so I thought I'd leave too and have a tiki tour around the south island in the car. This involved minimal planning or thought and quite a lot of fuel so I took the Bluebridge ferry over to Picton on the 31st December 2012.

The other alternatives were to spent new years with my housemates who would probably spend it on their computers, or go for a long wet tramp with AW in the Tararuas up a hill and stay in a DOC hut for the night, which sounded like too much hard work and involved more organisation that just buying a ticket to Picton and escaping on a tiki tour, which is what I did.


The crossing was fine and the weather in Picton hot and sunny when I arrived, before driving straight off I went for a walk along the Snout track, a 2-3hr return walk from Picton along a peninsular of land, on the way back I had a sudden thought about my bicycle tires heating up too much and bursting in the heat of the car, I had about 20 mins still to go before reaching the car during which time I was convinced I'd have shredded tires everywhere when I got there, it was fine, but I let the tires down a bit anyway.


Between Picton and Nelson Lakes, where I had booked a few nights at a doc campsite, some unauthorized weather settled itself in and proceeded to drizzle for the rest of the day. The next day I did some low level walks and then started up the hill in the afternoon, got to a point where the hill disappeared into the clouds and decided to come back down as I had forgotten any suitable walking trousers and only had jeans, which don't like getting wet.
From Nelson Lakes I continued down the west coast with the aim of stopping at a little village just north of Franz Josef, the weather had other ideas, as I continued down the west coast so the weather continued to get worse, until the whole place was one big thunderstorm washing away a bridge further down the coast and causing land slides in Arthers pass, which meant a 370km detour and half a tank of fuel (I googled mapped it) back up to Lewis Pass and over that to Hamner Springs in weather so wet the rain seemed solid with lightning bolts firing off all over the place, Hamner was fully booked and there was no way I was camping having found in Nelson Lakes my tent is not completely water proof anymore, so I slept in the car.

After 3 days of rain the weather broke, I was up early and away by 7am down the East coast in what turned out to be lovely weather for 456km drive to Mt Cook, by which time the weather came back for one more drizzle. Thankfully the morning was bright and clear and I was able to do a couple of quiet walks on the other side of the village avoiding the bus loads of Japanese tourists traipsing up the Hooker valley walk. By noon I was on my way again to Queenstown passing the beautiful milky blue Pukaki lake and over the Lindas Pass and into Wanaka for a nice rest top and stretching of legs and then over the Crown range, before arriving with every other tourist into Queenstown, then passing straight through to camp at the Doc site 10km out of town on the Glenorchy rd next to Lake Wakitipu.
I was glad to reach the southern most point of the trip and was keen to use my bike I brought all the way in the back of the car, I drove to the edge of town and reassembled the bike and headed through town towards  Frankton where a there's a nice low level cycle/ walking path that runs all the way round the headland opposite Queenstown. It was still quite early and the town was dead, which was quite a nice way to see Queenstown before everyone gets up, after a coffee stop/ phone charging at the only cafe opening early
(Starbucks) I went on my way and bumped into a friend who's just survived the Milford Track, and yes the water was knee deep and they were stranded in a hut for an extra night during the heavy rainfall.
The ride around the water between Queenstown and Frankton to the far side and back was 33km, nothing compared to Jon's 1000 mile bike ride around the south island, who I went off to collect in the afternoon on the road pass Kingston on the way to Invercargill. I booked a proper campsite with real showers that night as I thought Jon would probably want showering facilities. Another friend was also in town on a road trip so that evening I met up with him and his friends in town to enjoy a nice glass of Sav, Jon after cycling a 1600km was a bit tired so just went to bed.
The car now had 2 bikes in the back so I rewarded him (the car, obviously, called Cuthbert) with several liters of oil which he appeared to have been missing, oops, still he's all better now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n62P3ES8a9A

Highlights of a long trip

I started this trip on the 10th May 2012 and finished on the 3rd November, just shy of six months. I explored western Canada, the United States, Colombia, Bolivia, Peru and Chile.

Here are some of the highlights:

Enjoying some great snow skiing in Whistler, Rock climbing in Squamish, discovering dinosaurs in Drumheller and watching the ice melt on Lake Louise. Seeing a film at the home of the Banff film festival in Banff and scaring myself silly walking back through the woods from the hot springs on Sulphur Mountain. Playing Ultimate Frisbee in Vancouver island and discovering Tim Hortons and lovely cycle lanes in Victoria, Vancouver island.

Watching the cranes move across the roof of the Boeing Everett Factory north of Seattle, and seeing the next generation of flight being built in the largest building in the world by volume. American food! Cookie Butter and driving route 101 down the Oregon coast, winding through giant Redwoods and going from 30 degree heat to snow and ice at Crater Lake in a few hours.
Meeting friends old and new in San Francisco, cycling over the Golden Gate bridge and round the entire city and taking an audio tour around Alcatraz.
Arriving at Yosemite National Park for the first time, the most anticipated place of my trip took my breath away, reaching the top of Half Dome with a brilliant group of Californians and celebrating with a bottle of wine at the top from one of the groups family vineyard.

Watching some shows in Las Vegas and taking the Green Tortoise bus tour, wading up the narrows of Zion NP, feeling the heat in Arches and jumping about like kids in a downpour in Bryce. Taking a jeep ride around Monument Valley and walking into the Grand Canyon and watching thunder storms sweep past.

Staying in a lighthouse hostel in Montara, camping for a pittance at Half Moon Bay next to the beach, finding serenity in Santa Cruz and some nice Clam Chowders, and finally seeing the much talked about Big Sur coast line south of Monterrey.

Strengthening bonds with relatives in Chicago and having a Baileys in a Houlihan's bar with my cousin. Riding the subways in New York, eating some wonderful home cooked meals with family friends in Queens and a great brunch at the best spot in Brooklyn with a friend. Walking the length of central park and viewing Manhattan from the Top of the Rock, taking the Staten island ferry past the Statue of Liberty. Looking up at the neon's in Times Square and saying a prayer at Ground Zero.

Being back in the South Downs in Sussex, seeing some old friends in Inverness, having a walk in the Scottish hills and a traditional burger at the Ski'ing Doo resturant in Aviemore. Making the garden look nice again at my little house in Inverness, enjoying a trip to B&Q. Walking and cycling over the Downs, seeing the HMS Warrior and Victory with my Dad in Plymouth and enjoying a spa day at Center Parcs with my Mum. Having a swim in the sea with a good friend and eating as many cream teas as possible.

Taking Gringo Mike's bike tour in San Gil, Colombia and making a great new travel companion, Scuba Diving in Taganga with wonderful new friends. Wreck diving in Cartegena and horse riding next to Calima Lake.
Drinking Pisco Sours in Lima, seeing the mist disperse to reveal the splendor of Machu Picchu, exploring all around it and running back down the steps instead of taking the bus. Wandering through the cobbled streets in Cusco and enjoying some tasty dinners in San Blas. Cycling the World's Most Dangerous Road north of La Paz, Bolivia and crunching over the surreal salt flats thousands of meters up in the Salar De Uyuni. Cycling to Valley of the Moon in San Pedro de Atacama and discovering caves. Getting back to sea level in Chile. Eating lots of nice home cooked meals with new travel companions in La Serena and Valparasio, and enjoying being back in the world of good wine and chocolate.
Walking up San Cristobel hill in Santiago for a great view over the city and the Andes, enjoying the best coffee ever (it really is) with hostel friends at the Original Green Roasters cafe and eating some tasty local dishes at the market before heading home.

...And some low points:

Having a migraine on the first flight to Sydney, my Canadian phone SIM not working just when I really needed it, Calgary. Being scared of being eaten by bears in my tent in Whistler, trying to get out of Portland in my hire car for 5 hours and almost giving up, having a terrifying nightmare camping at Crater Lake about being attacked in my tent by cougars and bears the whole night, trying to find a place to stay in Mt Hood in the pouring rain at night and driving the same stretch of highway 5 times.

Leaving Yosemite. Having a migraine due to turbulence flying into Las Vagas, having heat rash in Arches NP. The first night trying to sleep on the Green Tortoise bus squashed like a sardine. Leaving the Green Tortoise group.

Missing the Sunday bus trying to get back to San Francisco because of out of date timetables, walking 3 miles with my backpack and eventually having to hitch hike. 

Getting lost in Chicago trying to find an address after a metro, 2 delayed flights, another metro and a bus.

Discovering my Lufthansa flight had be cancelled upon trying to check in at Gatwick due to strike action, dashing up to Heathrow after being rerouted onto other carriers, Iberia, who were delayed and Avianca who were also delayed. Getting ripped of by a taxi driver in Bogota and almost not finding the hostel. 

Being bored in Villa De Leyva, food poisoning on Cartegena, getting sunburnt in Calima. 

Having my flight from Cali, Colombia to Lima, Peru cancelled.

Punta Hermosa. Being sick and having the mother of all migraines on The Nasca lines flight due to erratic and stupid flying (everyone in the plane used their sick bags). Disappointed by Puno, losing some things. The altitude of Bolivia. Being delayed again flying back from Santiago, arriving back to a cold and rainy day.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ol0W1caSNU0

Santiago

People seem to have a dim view of Santiago of being `just another big city', but its really nice, it`s really really nice, I knew it would be. Its probably one of the nicest cities I have visited anywhere, the Andes are surprisingly close with the city being butted right up to the foothills. On my first walk into town from the very nice district of Providencia, I rounded a corner onto the main convergence of roads near the river where the city opens up allowing views of the Andes towering over the city, and almost jumped at the proximity them. My camera didn't really do them justice, but do a quick image search for Santiago Chile and you'll see what I  mean.

 Its a very green city, with avenues of trees everywhere, lots of Universities and a modern subway system. The central shopping area reminded me of central London, and a great vista of the whole city can be had from the top of San Christobal hill next to Bellavista restaurant  tourist district. I walked up the hill with a new friend from my hostel, Sam, who had the same MacPac bag, there was also plenty of mountain bikers enjoying the tracks around the hill and if ones feeling lazy there are taxis and a funicular that go to the top as well. There's also a zoo. We felt very safe walking about the city, even at night, I was in the mood for a cinema movie, so we found a Hoyts cinema and saw the latest Bourne film then walked back to hostel after dark, it`s great to feel safe again.

Anyway the point being Santiago is a very nice place and one I`d like to come back to, furthermore Chile is a nice place and defiantly warrants further investigation, there's also Argentina and Patagonia region, but that will have wait for some other time. For now I`ve reached the end of my trip, its been a long trip, not always easy but always challenging and have met some wonderful people and experienced some of the most wonderful places, some of which I will defiantly return to.

In the next post will be a list of highlights, a condensed version of the trip with my favourite places and experiences.
Thanks for reading, hope you found it informative/ interesting/ amusing/ will throw away your guide books because this is so much better. Thanks for all the support along the way from comments on here or via Facebook and words of support in response to my occasional crazed emails to folk when I was fed-up and wanted to go home, they kept me going. A big thanks to everyone who gave my a place to stay along the way not only saving me money, but providing company and a sense of belonging, I won`t forget your generosity and kindness, and not least thanks to those who don`t mind homing me temporarily when I return, it`s a big weight of my mind.
This is Claire Over There`s America`s reconnaissance mission, concluded.

Atacama, La Serena and Valparisio

San Pedro De Atacama is a nice place, a welcome change from the general mess and disorganisation of the previous countries. After eating at the most expensive place in town (not by choice I might add, but by generally blundering about trying to find somewhere quiet in the shade) I bumped into Jade and Luke who I'd first met in Nasca, and again in Aquas Calientes, and then in Bolivia on the Salar de Uyuni tour several times. Meeting them made me feel like there was some sort of order in the world and discovered their hostel was not only much cheaper but much nicer, so I moved to their place.

The guide book says its 17km to Valley De Luna, local operators say its 14km, its actually only 6km to the control point where you buy the ticket, and the area then continues for another 10km ish to the end where you turn around and come back. So facts and figures are some what misleading. Myself and Jade hired some bikes from the internet cafe on the main street for 3500 CLPs for 6 hours, where we were given a badly drawn map with some vague indication of the locality. The area features an exciting cave system, requiring a torch.

Antafagasta

Antafagasta on the coast is 5 hours away, its a big rather dull town on a grid pattern with roads sloping up a hillside. The waterfront area is quite nice and has a massive shopping mall surrounded by a promenade, the Bond film A Quantum of Solace used the town as a base for some filming around the area, including some scenes in hotels, Observatories and scenes in the Atacama. I was pleased to get back to sea level and the sea as the altitude was playing havoc with my sinuses.

La Serena

Further south after one final overnight bus* we arrived at La Serena, a lovely place. A perfect place to relax, most of the time was spent discussing dinner, making food, eating food and drinking coffee. Plus I finally managed to catch up with the remained of series 2 of A Game of Thrones.

Vina Del Mar

Valparaiso

Vina Del Mar and Valparaiso are nice places to wind up the trip, (more dinner planning, preparing and eating and even a game of scrabble, we are getting civilised now) Jade and Luke were heading over to Mendosa in Argentina and for me Santiago's the end of the line.

Notes:

*The bus showed 2 films, both American films but dubbed in Spanish, this is normal, but then at about 10.30pm on came Bobos Fantasy. At first I was quite annoyed by this as the volume was cranked up but ended up watching the whole thing.

• Hostel Florida in San Pedro, El Arbol in La Serena and Jacaranda in Valparaiso were really nice hostels, homely, welcoming and just perfect.

Into Chile

An overnight bus from La Paz later and I´d arrived in Uyuni and straight away booked a tour leaving a few hours later to take me over the Salar de Uyuni salt flats accross 4x4 territory into Chile, where I would transfer at the Bolivian border to San Pedro De Atacama in north Eastern Chile.

The whole town of Uyuni only seem to exisit to sell Salar De Uyuni tours to tourists, and there are a lot of horror stories about various companies and peoples experiences on the internet, and the companies that were most recommended in my guide book had the worst reviews on trip advisor. It was also more expensive to book from La Paz, so I decided just to turn up and campare tours in Uyuni itself. In reality it dosn´t really matter which company you use, as they all seem to run exactly to same tour, with the same menu, staying at similiar places, using the same type of vehicles (mostly Toyota Landcrusiers). One shouldn´t need to pay more than 750 Bovilianos.

In the event my tour was great, I went with Lapiz Tours who were helpful in the office and the driver was great. He did keep opening the door and looking at the front tyres as if they were about to fall off or something, which they didn´t, apart from that the tour exceeded my expectations. Excluding the driver there were 6 of us, a family of 4 from Belgium, a Scottish chap and myself. The tour start of driving over the bright white salt flats West of Uyuni, if you Google map the bottom west of Bolivia, you´ll see them as a big white blob. The first night we stayed in a hostel made of salt, on the edge of the salt flats, lunch was great and invloved some very nice meat, the Dutch didn´t eat any so myself and Michael finished the whole lot of between us. Dinner was a nice soup and a baked chicken dish, yum.

The next day we were up early to make the majority of the distance down to the Chilian border. The roads were sandy gravel tracks accross the mountains, and a lot of it hard going. We stopped at lagoon full of flamingos, cactus oasises, lagoons red with algea and green lagoons, the second night was spent at 4300 meters and aparently reached -10, we finished the tour visiting some amazing geysers with bubbling mud being chucked about and atmospheric mists lit up with the early morning sun, and then a much needed bath at the long awaited hot springs before transfering onto another bus for the short trip into San Pedro De Atacama, a little desert oasis, and a completely different feel from the last few countries and my last country of this trip.

Notes:

• It really dosn't matter what tour company you take for Salar De Uyuni, most of the reviews on the net as usually from people with bad experiences or expecting too much which makes it hard to make a decision. Just arrive at Uyuni and ask around when you get there. We had 6 people not including the driver in our car and it was fine, if people have very long legs they probably won't want to sit in the very back seats though.

The Worlds Most Dangerous Road

Otherwise known as The North Yungas Road, or Corico Road, or the Death Road, its 64km of narrow gravel road snaking down from 4,650 meters to 1,200 meters cut into the side of steep lush mountains. There are a few points where the drop over the side of the road is a sheer drop, and this is what everyone takes their photos of, but otherwise its not as steep like that all the way.

The route starts on a big paved road that descends for about 15km high up in the mountains where it starts very cold and gets warmer and warmer through the descent. Most of the traffic on the Death Road gravel section is one way traffic these days and the majority of that are tourists on bikes tours, but it is still an open public road.

I took a tour with Gravity, they were the first to pioneer the road as a tourist attraction and have the best safety record, they also give you a free T Shirt. Apart from their use of BMX helmets instead of proper mountain bike helmets, the equipment was very good, and being run by people who were not South Americans it mean they actually cared about the quality of their tours and the people on it. The tour lasted a full day with regular stops for people to regroup and for the guide to explain the next section, plenty of snacks and drinks were provided and the tour ended in a nice slightly hippyish nature reserve full of  parrots and monkeys, here we had a very nice buffet lunch and showers. Most of the group survived intact, one guy seemed OK in the morning and on the gravel road for the first few sections but seemed to come down all of a sudden with some kind of fever. He had been in Africa before Bolivia and it was feared he may have a tropical disease. Another girl took a fall early on, on the gravel and was a little concussed for a bit and had cut up her arm and hand, so they spent the rest of the trip in the support van.
On return to La Paz, the guy was taken to a doctors as he didn't seem to be getting any better.

The scenery was wonderful, the mountains could be appreciated more on the way back and some areas on the paved road section back to La Paz reminded me of Scottish hills but with tufts of tall grasses instead of heather's  For me it was a really fun day and so nice to have some self powered adventure again, which apart from Machu Picchu had been missing since Colombia. It was also nice to see some greenery, as a lot of the Altiplano and lower areas of Peru and Bolivia are dry with yellow sparse grasses.

La Paz itself is far more modern than I imagined, I found plenty of Western style clothes shops as well as all the usual quaint cobbled tourist streets with every shop selling exactly the same things, a great tradition of South American school of economics. There's a bunch of nicely carved churches and the main avenue into town has a central pedestrian walkway with nice flower beds and statues. There's even a chain of Western style coffee shops called Alexander Coffee, where you can buy an overpriced latte that's almost good. It even has a newspaper rack so you can pretend to be an important city person having their coffee in the big city.

My room in La Paz

Notes:

A tour with Gravity cost $107 USD, its about a third more than other operators but from talking to other travelers who did similar tours, the food quality is better with Gravity, they have better instruction during the ride and they have the nicest ending point.

Into Bolivia and a sad day

I took a really cheap and local bus to Puno because it was the only going at the time I got to the bus station. It took 8 hours not 6, and I don´t think the bus had been cleaned since it was first built. Puno has dump like qualities, but I did have a nice tour to the floating islands in the morning on Lake Titicaca which was really nice and was able to escape the same day on bus accross the border to Bolivia and made a horrible discovery. I had left my priceless towel and much treasured Indian scarf that was a present, the scarf was one of those really useful items, a towel, a sarong, a hat, a dust mask, an eye mask, sun protection, cold protection, a pillow case and a bit of history. My towel had travelled around the world with with me several times, and accompanied me on my first big trip. It´s not like me to lose things and it was like loosing some old friends. And as Ford Prefect said "If you want to survive out here, you've got to know where your towel is". Travelling has become a chore rather than a joy through since leaving Colombia, I think its time to go home.